What have I been doing for the past week or so? I'm having trouble remembering. My friend Fran came to stay for the weekend and on the Saturday we went to a couple of great restaurants in Palermo; Oui Oui for lunch and Sarkis for dinner, French(ish) and Armenian respectively. I had a pile of scrambled eggs with brioche, smoked salmon and peas at Oui Oui, along with the most amazing fresh, home-made lime juice sweetend with lots of sugar, which was totally moreish. Luckily it came served in a massive jug! Then at Sarkis I had lamb for the first time since I've got here (and man, have I missed it!) along with some great tabouleh, stuffed aubergines, hummus and lots of pitta. In between eating we strolled through Palermo, checking out shops and market stalls and walked round the Jardin Botanico, looking in the greenhouses and wandering the paths there.
Sunday was one of the best days I've had in Buenos Aires so far, the weather changed from grim and grey to bracingly cold but beautifully sunny, perfect for a day at La Feria de Matadores, a traditional gaucho market on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. Forget San Telmo, this market is the real deal, with hundreds of different stalls laid out in a huge cross around a plaza filled with dancers and a stage of singers and musicians, performing all day; guachos competing on horseback, thundering down a sand-covered street to pluck a tiny token from a high bar and prove their talents; and people from all over looking at the wares, tasting the cheese and dulce de leche on offer, trying on hats and llama-wool gloves, and generally having a great time.